Sipping Slings in Singapore

People, ourselves included have got it wrong when we think of Singapore as a sterile, rule driven city where minor transgressions for litter and gum chewing are punished by huge fines.  Yes there are lots of rules, and yes there are fines too but by contrast to JB, Singapore is safe, bustling and clean.  Getting through the immigration from Malaysia was easy although we kept being asked “why only one day?”  What people meant was “why are you going back each night to JB?”

Welcome to Singapore - A fine place

Our starting point was the spectacular Marina Bay Sands Hotel, with more than 2,500 bedrooms contained in three towers and topped with the impressive Skypark which looks like an ocean liner in the clouds.  The bus station is in the basement and is equally impressive and a far cry from Larkin Road.

We’d compiled a list of places of interest we wanted to visit and with only a day and a half we had to be disciplined.  A short taxi ride to Chinatown where we studied the map and enjoyed some crispy roast duck and pancakes. 

We headed for Changi Prison which is off the beaten track - looking at the map it looked like a quick tube ride and a short hop on a no 2 bus but…. map not to scale and 35 minutes on the tube followed by a bus trip of 16 stops, still we made it. 

The Changi museum is based next door to the fully operational Changi prison which is enormous. We’re not sure who is locked up there as crime is low and Singapore is a small island.   The museum is interesting but I didn’t get a feel for what conditions were really like.  This is partly because the true site of Changi is not accessible and partly because it reflects more broadly the occupation by the Japanese rather than the treatment of allied troops.  The displays are informative and include a replica of the church which was established inside Changi .  We listened to audio tapes as we walked around and inmates retold in their own words their often harrowing tales of brutality under theJapanese. 

We retraced our steps back into Chinatown which by now was bustling with excitement as people start to shop for the Chinese new year . Red lanterns are everywhere and the atmosphere is electric.  We just have a time for a few beers before heading back to JB.

There are red sausages everywhere too!

On day 2 we start at the Harbour Centre to experience the Jewel Box cable car.  The cable car runs from the 16^th floor of a tower block and is the biggest I have ever seen.  My fear of heights is obviously diminishing as we reached the top without serious incident.  The views of the Singapore skyline and harbour were amazing.  In the harbour hundreds of boats are at anchor in the blue sea waiting to enter the busy port.  The sun is shining and we can see for miles from this fantastic vantage point. 

We  jump back into the cable car which heads over the bay to Sendai Island.  Sendai is an entertainment centre with artificial beaches, a theme park and Universal Studios. We have a brief mooch around and John spots a tall tower. He’s keen to go up but personally I think the heights I have been to in the last few days are sufficient. I opt for a coffee while John heads up the 110 metre revolving tower which give good views of Sendai’s amenities.

Back to the Harbour Centre and we even manage to spot a couple of pink dolphins swimming in the harbour below us. A couple of shops take John’s interest – you can probably guess why.

Next stop Raffles Place which is in the heart of the commercial district with the river running through the middle.  There are lots of bars and eateries but we want to cruise up the river on a bum boat.  The half hour trip is very relaxing as we wind our way between small houses and bars over-shadowed by massive sky scrapers. The Chinese believe that the big basin shaped marina at this part of the river is lucky which is why so many buildings overlook the river. The views from the river are spectacular with each bend taking you into a different kind of area with one consistent element  - bars.

We have a special bar in mind for our next stop – The Long Bar at Raffles Hotel. On the way John is stopped by a fortune teller (conman)  who holds Johns hand and tells him what a lucky person he is although he has one weakness – people take advantage of him.  He manages to get $s10 from us and as his patter continues he asks us for $s200.  There’s taking advantage and taking the piss and we part company and just to prove how lucky John is, the heavens open with a torrential down pour.

Raffles Hotel – we’ve heard stories that they can be a bit sniffy if you’re improperly dressed (eg wearing Partick Thistle scarf).  I walk up the wide path to this last bastion of Britishness and with some trepidation ask the imposing Sikh doorman about the Long Bar.  No problem, he even poses with me for a photo. 

The colonial building is dwarfed by the surrounding skyscrapers and smell of the highly polished wood and the mosaic marble floors give a real feel of Empire.  We pass the tiffin room where guests are enjoying high tea. Obviously the part of the hotel that we are free to roam is away from the £700 a night guest rooms.  It really is a tourist trap with expensive designer shops and souvenirs but it is lovely.

The Long Bar is on the second floor and is full of other tourists doing the same as us.  Each table has a big box of peanuts which you eat – discarding the shells onto the floor – this takes a bit of getting used to especially as we are in a country where dropping litter holds an instant fine of £200.  Although draft Guinness is available John decides to do the Noel Coward thing and we like most people, we order Singapore Slings.   

Singapore Slings and shells on the floor

We follow up with Raffles fish and chips and a pot of tea which we enjoyed as we relaxed in the comfortable surroundings. We were entertained by the bar manager who had an unerring aim with peanuts which he used to drive away a couple of pigeons which had managed to get in.  We ordered an ice bucket for our wallet and paid the bill.

Back for beers in Chinatown where we bumped into two fellow Rafflesians who like us were taking a beer and watching the world go by. We chatted to Louise and Una and promised them 
a mention in the blog

Back to the Marina Bay Sands for the return to JB, we just had time to visit the sky park.  It’s not been open long and at 200metres high, the views of Singapore as night was closing in have made a lasting impression.  The wooden decking really gives an impression of being on a liner with a bow and faux masts.

We head back to JB with the knowledge that tomorrow we’re leaving at 6.45 am for a flight to Langkawi.  You can follow our progress in our next blog